Writen by Daviyd Peterson

Wireless Consulting and Solution Providers have always been important to african american small businesses and now after several years of having the most technologically advanced homes in our neighborhood, we are beginning to realize that our neighbors could benefit from the same technology in educating our children. With the future our african american children are facing being dependent on computers and broadband access it is critical to have the proper tools for our children to have the confidence necessary to face the future.

Psyche. There is a very good friend that is a Wireless Solution Provider in Chicago, whose wife “suggested” that he share his expertise with a neighbor who had been visiting his family’s computer homeschool. Well after one thing led to another he finally enabled about 18 african american computer homeschools in the Chicago area, thus becoming a african american homeschool resource for wireless.

This little story is related because while I myself was working in Chicago for 4 years, he came to me for assistance in selecting a networked computer system that would be affordable for his clients. I had success with using thin client computers before with african american owned small businesses, networking them through a small server and then upgrade them to an additional firewall for full strength protection. He tried this with one family and for around $1700 they received 2 thin pc’s and a server, they were excited to say the least. The thin pc benefits kept working for him and his clients over and over again when creating a computer homeschool.

Now I begin to work in North Texas and my sister “suggests” to me that I consult for a african american single mom in Dallas. *Side note… for those who perhaps may be uninformed about my use of the word “suggest” let me share with you how an african american woman “suggests” anything to men. First she will begin by asking you to handle a certain situation and if you don’t respond correctly (never have, never will, women are smarter) the next level of the speech will be at a volume that will make the suggestion clear.

Back to the benefits of thin client and how they make an excellent option.

Thin clients have no CD drive, floppy drive, and don’t look for a hard drive because it’s on the server the actual workhorse of the network. The point is that it is ‘thin’ and most of the really hard work is done by another computer with all the bells and whistles as it needs them to ‘manage’ the thin pc’s. That alone saves you money, and when it comes time to upgrade (and you know it’s coming), all your processing power is actually in the server that manages your network.

Even if you do have to replace one of your thin pc’s, it costs $500 or less and a full blown fat desktop starts at $900 on up. Installing thin client networks are a breeze, setup the server and load it with the software you need to use, plug in the wireless thin client pc’s and go for it! Lower upfront costs, easy to upgrade and install makes this a better option for today’s computing homeschool.

Daviyd Peterson: 10-year consultant, instructor, trainer

Helps african american homeschools bridge the digital
divide by becoming computer homeschools. Free article
on “Computer Homeschooling” and other related articles
http://www.homeschoolwireless.com/homeschoolwireless.htm

<309.403.4983 phone/fax>

Writen by Nathaniel Fisher

December, 2002

You wouldn’t believe how many times I have been asked the question “So what exactly is the difference between a switch and a hub anyway?” Or how many times I have heard it answered “Well, switches switch and… err… a hub doesn’t.” This would leave one to believe that maybe there isn’t much difference at all or maybe this is just another one of those marketing strategies so that computer vendors can charge us more. Well that is not the case and there really is a difference (quite a significant one).

Hubs have been around a long time. So long in fact, that many people assume that anything that “connects all their computers together” is a hub. Well, that may not be the case. The term “hub” has become generic for any device that connects computers together. To add to the confusion, there is very little difference in their physical appearance. But on the inside, there is a world of difference.

For those techno weenies out there (like me) that have heard of the OSI model, a switch operates on Layer 2 (or above) of the OSI model and a hub operates at Layer 1. There is NO intelligence to a hub. A hub is literally as though you just meshed all of the copper wires in all the cables from the workstations into one. Everything that one workstation “hears” or transmits all of the others hear. Immediately this may not sound like such a bad idea, but it can have tremendous impact on the performance of your network, especially when you start daisy chaining the hubs together.

The difference with a switch is that once a communications session has been established between two devices (whether computers, network printers or anything else) then none of the other computers or devices can “hear” them. This drastically reduces network traffic.

Now it is necessary to point out here a very common mistake: switches DO NOT block broadcasts. If you don’t know what a broadcast is, then you probably can ignore what I am saying. But a broadcast and broadcast “storms” cannot be prevented with a switch (at least not Layer 2 switches).

The good news is that now the cost of a switch is not much more than a hub. In fact, some places don’t even sell hubs any more.

Bottom line:

If you’re small office / home network has 2-4 computers then you really have no need to upgrade. But if your network has 5+ workstations then it may be worth your investment to purchase a switch.

Now, just before you start thinking this is too simple. There is actually a very wide variety of the types of switches and their brands out there. Look for future articles describing the vendors to stay away from and the features and options you have when purchasing.

———————————————————

This article may be republished freely providing proper acknowledgment is given to Nathaniel Fisher as the author. The following bio of the author must be included in all publication. www.fidelitynetworks.com

Writen by Ewen Chia

It is a given fact that buying wholesale would make us save more money than buying individual items at retail. Purchasing in bulk means more profit for the seller that he could be afforded the leeway of granting discounts. This principle is important when you’re planning on buying wholesale bar code reader and software.

Perhaps the parties interested with purchasing wholesale bar code reader and software are those who own several branches of their businesses, or those who maintain several identification and verification operations in their establishments. Wholesale bar code reader and software, after all, would result in more savings for such a business.

There are many places where you could buy wholesale bar code reader and software. On the Internet alone, a lot of online stores are offering retail and wholesale bar code reader and software. Given the lofty status of these devices, wholesale bar code reader and software are considered as items of above 5 pieces. Not a bad deal right?

Additionally, wholesale bar code reader and software regularly appears on eBay. Ebay is a bidding site where a lot of enterprising people advertise what they want to sell. The person you would deal with won’t necessarily be the wholesaler per se, but most certainly, he’ll have access to a drop shipper who would give you access to wholesale bar code reader and software, if such is your wish.

Additionally, most major manufacturers of these fantastic tools also offer wholesale bar code reader and software. You may study and determine the goods offered by each manufacturer, and if they suit your needs to a tee, you could purchase wholesale bar code reader and software from them. Here is a list of the major manufacturers who also sell wholesale bar code reader and software:

Argox

Opticon

DataLogic

Visidot by ImageID

Symbol Technologies

Intermec

PSC Inc.

Hand Held Products

American Microsystems, Ltd.

Metrologic Instruments

Wholesale bar code reader and software can also be bought from warehouses of establishments devoted to office supplies and commercial products. Most of these warehouses have to be visited personally however, which would be better for your expenses. Shipping wholesale bar code reader and software can cost a fortune, specially if you prefer the flatbed ones, or worse, those with bigger terminals.

It goes without saying that, given the bulk of wholesale bar code reader and software, you would have to doubly make sure that you’re getting the bar code reader type and kind that you want and need. You won’t want to get stuck with wholesale bar code reader and software that you won’t get to use, right?

So before purchasing wholesale bar code reader and software, determine which built and your business would need. You could select from stationary terminals and handheld bar code readers. Of the latter, you could choose from normal ones or those that can download data through radio frequency. You would also have to determine beforehand which bar codes would best suit your operations. Bar codes determine the bar code reader, and not the other way around.

Then and only then can you decide to buy wholesale bar code reader and software.

Ewen Chia is the owner of BarCodeReader.info
providing excellent bar code reader information,
news plus completely *free* barcode fonts!
==> http://www.BarCodeReader.info

Writen by Bonnie Archer

You will have many factors to consider when deciding on which computer equipment to buy. The bewildering amount of choices can seem overwhelming. This guide will help you compare computer equipment features, and help you to examine and sift through many of the basic items before you buy a new computer. If it be a desktop PC, laptop, discount/surplus computer, a refurbished computer or a computer accessory, this quick guide will help you to get the most for your money.

With today’s computer equipment almost any of them will adequately handle what most people need to buy a new computer for; word processing, basic office, internet surfing and email. Which you can buy for about $1000. or less! But if you are into digital videos, photo editing, music, or manage a large database you will need more than the basic Desktop PC or Laptop. This higher end computer will cost you around $1500-$2000.

(CPU) Processors:

There is always a lot of change in the computer market, but no matter what the upgrades there is always two basic choices to be made when purchasing computer equipment:

1) brand 2) speed. To buy a new computer that handles standard office and Internet tasks any processor will work.

Need more ‘power’ in your computer equipment? Then the Intel Pentium4 or the AMD Athlon XP (great for graphics and photos which use a lot of memory space) are for you.

If you buy a new computer one or two levels from the top you will only lose about five percent per tier performance but you can save a couple hundred dollars!

(RAM) Memory:

Memory is most important because optimum running of your computer equipment is dependent on enough RAM. The minimum amount should be 256MB, for better performance you should get 512MB. If it is affordable to buy a new computer with more, you should. It’s worth it because you can keep more applications open and it will easily handle memory hogs like Photoshop and music applications!

Monitors:

When buying your computer equipment look for a monitor that is at least 17″ with a resolution of 1280 by 1024 pixels. A Desktop PC with a 19-inch monitor gives you 20 % more screen area. If you can spend $300-$450 on a monitor when you buy a new computer you might want to get a 15″ LCD because it has the same viewable area as the 17″ CRT and takes up much less space.

Hard Drives (storage):

Most hard drives in today market will provide more than enough storage. The basic computer equipment comes with 40GB or larger, which is plenty for most tasks. But for working with graphics, video, music, or large databases 80GB should be the minimum you settle for. 7200-rpm drives give better performance. But for the best performance get a computer with 8MB of cache.

Warranty and Tech Support:

A one-year warranty on most computer equipment is plenty, because most problems seem to happen in the first year. If you want you can get an extended two to three year warranty for around $150. to $200. As of this writing, if you buy a Dell you can get priority call routing to tech support for a year for only $39.

For more information on buying a new computer visit our website. Be sure to check out our computer directory near the bottom of the page for our recomended online resoruces to get the best deals on your next computer.

Check out our Blog!
http://a1-computers.blogspot.com

Writen by David Picella

The internet is full of technical articles, many of which are way too complicated for the average computer user who just wants to solve a simple problem. If you pay close attention, the internet is also a place where the “gurus” spend a lot of time yelling for help in discussion boards and forums. So don’t feel bad, nobody has all the answers.

So you want to dual boot Windows and Linux on the same computer—it is really quite easy. I only have enough room here to tell you the most common way to do this on a single hard drive or using multiple hard drives. Obviously then, there are many ways to get the job done, but there are some critical things you should know. Let’s start with some critical information.

Windows and Linux: Same Hard Drive
The windows operating system MUST occupy the master boot record (MBR). Linux, on the other hand does not have to. In this scenario, you must install windows first! After Windows has been successfully installed, then you can install Linux. This is critical! The Linux “boot loader” is called GRUB. When you install Linux—MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT INSTALL THE LINUX BOOT LOADER TO THE MBR.

Configure the Windows Boot Loader: A Two Step Process
It is also possible to use GRUB to dual boot Windows and Linux on the same drive but this is a bit more complex—the Windows boot loader will get the job done. In the following commands, you will create a copy of the Linux boot sector and then save it in a file in the top level directory under Windows (C:).

Step 1: Linux
From the shell in your Linux installation (boot from your installation disks):
Execute the following shell command, replacing /dev/hda3 with the location of your Linux boot partition.

shell# dd if=/dev/hda3 of=/bootsect.lnx bs=512 count=1

Copy the new file—bootsect.lnx—to a floppy disk and reboot to Windows.

Step 2: Windows
Copy bootsect.lnx to C: in Windows. Then execute the following command at the DOS prompt.

C:> attrib -H -R -S boot.ini

Edit boot.ini so that the first two lines are:

[boot loader]
timeout=30

After the last line, add:

c:bootsect.lnx=”Start Linux”

That’s it, you are done! Reboot your machine and you will see a menu allowing you to select either Windows or Linux. Congratulations.

Windows and Linux: Two Hard Drives
This is also quite easy. In this case, you will boot to the Linux drive. We will add Windows to the Linux boot loader (i.e., GRUB). GRUB is my favorite boot loader.

Edit the /boot/grub/grub.conf file. One of the very first lines should contain:

timeout=30

After the last line add:

title Start Windows
map (hd1) (hd0)
map (hd0) (hd1)
rootnoverify (hd1,0)
makeactive
chainloader +1

Reboot your machine to the Linux drive and you will see a menu allowing you to select between Linux or Windows. Nice work!

This article is obviously short and does not include any explanations of how these commands work. There are variations on what I have shown here depending on your hardware setup, but I believe that these are the most common and should get the job done nicely. I would be happy to direct you to additional resources if this does not work for you.

Copyright 2005 Majella.us

David Picella is a Family Nurse Practitioner and PhD Student at UW Milwaukee. You can find additional technichal resources for this article in the technology section at: http://www.majella.us

Writen by Ewen Chia

Bar code readers have proven themselves to be essential tools in modern day business. Establishments, both big and small, have started to rely on bar code readers to make their operations quicker, more convenient, and more efficient. Yet, thousands are still interested to hop aboard the bar code bandwagon, but they don’t know much about the said technology. This article will discuss a variety of barcode reader downloads for every need.

Bar Code Reader Downloads For Beginners

If you’re itching to find out more about bar code readers and bar code technology in general, the World Wide Web is a good place to start. Cyberspace is home to thousands upon thousands of bar code reader downloads that could teach you the basics of this truly advantageous technology.

Almost every manufacturer offers a bar code reader download of a tutorial that would serve as an engaging introduction to bar codes and bar code readers. One such manufacturer, and one such website, is www.microscan.com where a bar code reader download entitled Bar Codes 101 can be acquired. The file is in .pdf format, which means that you could read it online. This bar code reader download would serve as a magnificent foreword to what should be a rewarding experience with bar codes and bar code readers.

Bar Code Reader Downloads For Updates

Bar code readers, of course, operate through a program that allows them to decode the encoded data. But bar code inscriptions change with the changing times. New needs emerge that necessitate new encoding procedures for bar codes. With new encodings, new decoding processes are required. This shouldn’t be taken to mean that you should throw away the bar code readers which you have previously purchased. You could always update their decoding software through the appropriate bar code reader download.

By updating your bar code reader software with the corresponding bar code reader download, you would be able to decrypt the latest inscriptions in bar codes. This would allow your bar code reader to keep up with the changing times.

Bar code readers seldom become obsolete, even with the influx of new models and technologies. With excellent support from the manufacturers, bar code reader downloads are always available to ensure that your bar code reader would serve you and your business for a long, long time.

Simply refer to your bar code reader’s manufacturer’s homepage for the corresponding update via bar code reader download.

Bar Code Reader Downloads For Extra Features

There are some bar code readers that can do more than just the usual expectations. PDA-type bar code readers, for example, are the rave these days, as a variety of applications can be obtained aside from the usual reading and decoding of bar codes. For them, support in the form of bar code reader downloads is essential to maximize the potentials of the said devices. Bar code reader downloads for these types include a plethora of amazing programs that range from entertainment to office applications.

Aside from their respective manufacturers, bar code reader downloads for this group of bar code readers can also be obtained from countless third parties that have tinkered with such technology to give you the most value for your reader.

Ewen Chia is the owner of BarCodeReader.info
providing excellent bar code reader information,
news plus completely *free* barcode fonts!
==> http://www.BarCodeReader.info

Writen by Ron King

Computer memory is called Random Access Memory (RAM). The information stored in RAM can be accessed randomly, rather than sequentially. This means that data can be found in any location at the same rate of speed. Other storage media, such as CD-Rom and hard drives, must wait while the drive spins to the correct location before the data can be accessed.

Computer memory is simply a storage area for the program code and the data that program uses. Computer programs use RAM to write and retrieve information, allowing for fast data retrieval and manipulation.

How Much RAM is Enough?

Simply stated, the answer is, as much as possible. Keep in mind, though, once you’ve reached a certain upper limit, which is determined by the computer program(s) used, investment in more memory will see a diminished return.

Adding more memory is one of the best ways to maximize computer performance. If you compare 2 identical computer systems, the one with the most memory will over-all be the faster. More RAM allows the computer to place more program instructions into memory, relying less on the slower hard drive.

Think of 512 Megabytes (MB) as the base standard for a modern computer. With that you can multi-task (run several applications concurrently). For instance, you can check email and download MP3s, without noticeable sluggishness.

Some applications, however, are more memory-hungry than others. Graphics programs, for example, are notoriously greedy. Memory needs are further exagerated by the operating system used. Microsoft Windows is far more demanding than, say, Linux. Currently, most PCs use Windows, though.

Should you notice your computer slowing down, consider adding more memory. Before committing to that option, however, try de-fragmenting your hard drive with a utility (program) designed for that sole purpose. A fragmented hard drive is a common cause of stalled computer performance.

Types of RAM

Right now DDR SDRAM is the most popular memory module. DDR stands for Double Data Rate, which means that the memory can be accessed twice per clock-cycle. SDRAM, the acronym for Synchronous Data Random Access Memory, has been the standard for memory modules for nearly a decade.

To add memory to your computer, you must install modules with the correct contact layout. Before purchasing new memory, you must know which type your motherboard will accept. The most common form factors are 168 pin, 184 pin and 200 pin.

You’ll also need to know whether there are slots available on your motherboard. If all the slots are already in use, you’ll have to replace 1 or all of the current modules with higher capacity ones. If there is at least 1 free slot, you can simply buy a new memory module and insert it in the empty slot.

A word of caution: whereas some motherboards can accept either SDRAM or DDR SDRAM, the 2 types cannot be mixed. You must decide on 1 or the other. Check the motherboard manual first to determine which kind of memory your computer requires.

And finally, when you are ready to install your brand new memory module, make sure of 2 things: the power is off (for your safety) and you are electrically grounded (for your computer’s safety).

Ron King is a full-time researcher, writer, and web developer. Visit http://www.build-computer-now.com to learn more about this fascinating subject.

Copyright 2005 Ron King. This article may be reprinted if the resource box is left intact.

Writen by Gary Hendricks

So how do you make sense of all the CPUs out there? Well, let’s start by splitting them into four broad categories:

• Obsolete Processors
• Budget Processors
• Mid-Range Processors
• High-End Processors

Obsolete Processors

These would refer to those processors which were around 5 or more years ago. They will typically come with older refurnished or budget computer systems. Be very careful if you are purchasing such CPUs as your system’s speed will definitely slow to a crawl. Worse still, some software on the market today simply cannot be run using older processors.

The Windows XP operating system, for example, needs the newer crops of CPUs to function. Overall, I’d only recommend buying these processors if you want to do extremely simple tasks with your PC - like word processing or general web browsing. Some examples of processors in this category would be: the older AMD Athlon CPUs and Intel Celeron CPUs, AMD Duron CPUs, and Intel Pentium III CPUs.

Budget Processors

Strapped for cash? Consider purchasing CPUs in this category - which include yesterday’s top-of-the-line CPUs which have been discontinued or the newer budget CPUs. While you may not get extremely good performance, these CPUs will give you the best bang for your buck.

While you’re not going to get super-duper performance for more CPU intensive activities like gaming and video editing, the speed provided by these CPUs will be more than enough for general applications. Under this category, you’d be looking at processors like the AMD Athlon XP, AMD Sempron, Intel Celeron (2.4 GHz and higher), as well as the Intel Pentium 4 (2.6 GHz and lower).

Mid-Range Processors

The CPUs in this category would have been king of the hill just 6 months ago. Due to the entry of newer, faster CPUs, processors will drop in price and become more affordable. These processors will still scream in performance and are very popular among current PC owners.

Whenever I upgrade my computer, I always go for CPUs in this category. To sum up: thes CPUs here give slightly outdated but extremely powerful performance. Examples include the AMD Athlon XP (2800+ to 3500+) and the Intel Pentium 4 (2.8GHz and higher) CPUs.

High-End Processors

Want drop-dead performance? The CPUs in this category will scream even if you run the most demanding gaming or video editing applications in the market today. Of course, be prepared to fork out serious cash. If you absolutely want no less than the best, be an early adopter and go for one of these CPUs.

Personally, I tend to avoid buying top-of-the-line CPUs for two reasons - the high prices and stability. These CPUs are not only expensive, they are also unproven - I’ve heard cases of extremely new CPUs crashing or overheating. CPUs like the AMD Athlon 64 FX and the Intel Pentium 4 Extreme Edition fall into this category.

Conclusion

In summary, always consider your computing needs when selecting a CPU. If you want to do simple word processing or general computer tasks, go for the budget or low end processors. If you are more into gaming or do CPU intensive work like video editing, go for a mid-range or high-end processor.

Gary Hendricks runs a hobby site on building computers. Visit his
website at Build-Your-Own-Computers.com for tips and tricks on assembling a PC, as well as buying good computer components.

Writen by Nicholas Spriggs

Overclocking, which was once the domain of power users and high-end gamers, has now gone mainstream. It’s true that overclocking might prove to be a shot in the arm for your CPU. However, if things go awry, you could well have a fried CPU.

There are scads of information regarding overclocking on the Internet. But sadly, most of the websites tout overclocking as a walk in the park, misleading users by concealing the associated risks. A computer novice, unaware of the risks involved, may set out to overclock the processor based on some advice he got from such a website. This really makes me cringe. Is the whole process of overclocking a no-brainer?

In simple words, overclocking your processor requires an alteration in the hardware settings in order to make it run faster than the manufacturer’s specification. The ideology is that the manufacturer’s ratings are a result of stringent trials and tests performed against the CPU. Then onwards, the CPU is tagged with a particular clock frequency at which it can take up substantial workload on a regular basis without malfunctioning. This clock rate is often a notch lower than the maximum a CPU can sustain.

PC enthusiasts perceive this as a windfall, and try to breach the frequency barriers set by the manufacturers. This can be a viable option for CPUs which can be easily overclocked, since some CPUs have better overclockability than others. But in general, overclocking your processor can be a risk-prone endeavor.

Overclocking is also employed by a few unscrupulous component resellers. They overclock a processor, falsely remark it as a high speed processor, and then onwards sell it at profit. Major brands like Intel strive to curtail such swindling acts. Intel has employed a mechanism called CPU locking, where the clock multiplier is set to a permanent value. Therefore, overclocking your processor, especially if it’s an Intel product, is a bit harder than usual.

A point to be noted is that Intel’s CPU locking mechanism has much to do with unscrupulous vendors rather than end user overclocking. But at the end, it looks like you might have to seek out other means for overclocking your processor.

Let’s say you really want something extra from your existing CPU, but you are on a shoestring budget, and the best possible option is overclocking. Even if you opt for overclocking your processor, you need to take a few precautions, lest it can be a real bummer for you.

The conventional heat sink and CPU fan won’t do much good, since an overclocked processor dissipates a lot more heat. If not dealt with properly, you could face frequent hang ups, system crashes and random reboots. Though a rarity, your processor could also suffer permanent damage. It is recommended that you install an effective cooling mechanism for your overclocked processor, such as water cooling or Peltier cooling. Also ensure that you possess a computer case that enables proper ventilation for an efficacious cooling.

What I have presented here might appear dissenting to a few overclocking zealots, but it’s the truth. I suggest you carry out some basic research before you plan on overclocking your processor.

Nicholas Spriggs at desktop-computer-guide.com is dedicated to providing up to date and acurate information in the computer and technology field. Check us out or subscribe to our newsletter.

Writen by Bob Rankin

How Long Will a CD or DVD Last?

As with any backup medium (floppy disk, tape, CDROM, etc.) the lifetime of the data is an important consideration. Kodak has done extensive accelerated aging tests which indicate that their Infoguard CD-R should last 200 years. TDK say that their discs will last “about 100 years”. Others tell horror stories that no-name CDs which they have burned are no longer readable after a few months.

Optical disk manufacturers advise that storing your backup disks in a cool, dry environment will help to prolong data life, while direct sunlight and fingerprints may cause damage to a CD or DVD. A good rule of thumb (no pun intended) seems to be to buy a brand-name disk, treat it as per the guidelines above, but don’t expect it to last more than five years.

But even if your CDROM data remains intact for 50 years, will we still have CD and DVD readers commonly available then? Technology changes rapidly. When was the last time you saw a computer with a 5.25 inch floppy drive? Even the 3.5 inch floppy is an endangered species, now that most computers are sold without them. In a few decades, the CDROM may be outmoded.

I suggest you revisit your backup strategy every few years, and re-copy all critical data to new media on the same basis. Now that portable USB flash drives are getting cheaper, you might consider using them instead of optical disks.

Repairing a Damaged CD-ROM

Even if you’re careful, CDs can get scratched and become unreliable or unreadable. A few years ago, I read about the Toothpaste Cure. It sounds a bit hokey, but I can tell you it has brought some CDROM disks back to life when I thought they were goners. Here’s how it works:

First clean the disk with warm water and mild soap to remove any oils from fingerprints or other sources. Dry it with a clean, lint-free towel and see if the disk will work now. If not, bring on the Crest!

Rub the disk gently with toothpaste (the pasty kind, not a gel) in a RADIAL (not circular) motion from the center of the disk to the outside edge. Wash and dry it again and see if it’s readable.

Some people report success when using car polish, silver polish, or Rain-X instead of toothpaste. The idea is that small scratches are buffed out, and some of the polishing agent remains on the disk to fill in any irregularities on the optical surface. Due to the chance that the filler may fall out over time and gum up your CDROM drive, you should make a copy of the repaired disk and discard the original.

It doesn’t always work, but it’s worth a try when the only alternative is to throw away the disk. Some commercial products that may be useful are Wipe Out! and Discwasher.

Reprinted from: http://www.askbobrankin.com/lifetime_of_a_cdrom_disk.html

BOB RANKIN… is a tech writer and computer programmer who enjoys exploring the Internet and sharing the fruit of his experience with others. His work has appeared in ComputerWorld, NetGuide, and NY Newsday. Bob is publisher of the Internet TOURBUS newsletter, author of several computer books, and creator of the http://LowfatLinux.com website. Visit Bob Rankin’s website for more helpful articles and free tech support.